Tuesday, September 15, 2009

European charm in Old Towne Orange

I like to think that I'm someone who appreciates change. It's better to see a commercial area get reborn and revitalized rather than slowly die off, affecting the community around it. However, I find this notion flies right in the face of my strong sense of nostalgia.

I have fond childhood memories of visiting Old Towne Orange with my family. Honestly, I mainly remember getting dragged through antique store after antique store. Still, as much as I disliked wandering aisles full of musty old furniture, I did enjoy the trips to Watson's Drug Store and a few of the other unique shops around the Orange Circle. All in all, I have some strong memories of the area, which has made it tough watching it slowly fade away through the years.

When it comes down to it, what I really want to see is a renewal of historic areas like Downtown Orange that celebrates and preserves the glory of the past while meeting the likes and interests of the modern community. I have watched with caution as Orange has slowly gone through this transition, keeping my fingers crossed, hoping the area would not end up overrun with big box retail and restaurants like Pasadena.

After a visit to the Circle's newest establishment, Haven Gastropub, at the far south end of Glassell St., I feel I may finally have reason to breath just a little easier. Old Towne has had some great places for some time--Felix Continental Cafe, the Filling Station--the fate of the area has remained uncertain. However, Haven offers hope that Orange may be on its way to being one of the best hang outs in Orange County.

At first sight, one recognizes that a lot of care has gone into creating Haven. The place combines contemporary style with traditional European pub elements, such as rustic brickwork, large iron chandeliers and dark wood furniture. Of course, to be a good pub, the place needs to have a solid assortment of beers, among other libations. If the six foot tall chalkboard with the long list of microbrews is any indicator, very few should be left disappointed. I imagine quite a few others will be pleased with their scotch bar.

While I appreciate a place that serves a good assortment of beers, the true test of the place is whether it lives up to its namesake and serves "high quality food." Despite having a limited menu, the house burger I got was excellent and a sign of good things to come. The sandwich included a hearty beef patty topped with a great selection of ingredients, including roasted peppers, st. agur cheese, fresh arugula and pickled onions.




As impressive as the burger was, it's the fries--or perhaps the condiment served with the fries--that stole the show. Don't get me wrong, the fries were terrific, but I particularly appreciated the homemade ketchup that accompanied them. While I would have enjoyed a little more tang, I loved the sweetness of the brown sugar. Preference for sweet or tangy aside, the place deserves a lot of credit for their commitment to making sure every item they serve is fresh and tastes great.

My only real disappointment with Haven would be the size of the menu. However, the word is this is only a test menu and a broader menu is on the way. Considering what I've seen so far, I'm happy to know the owners are committed to slowly building a top quality menu rather than quickly putting together a large assortment of mediocre items. My only hope is that they choose to add a few more reasonably priced items so I can justify dining here a time or two a week after work.

All in all, I'm surprised that Haven has only been open for a couple of weeks, even with the limited menu. The great atmosphere and top quality menu show that a lot of thought has gone into the restaurant. With only two weeks in the books, I can't wait to see what this place can do in a few months.

Haven Gastropub is located at 190 S. Glassell St., Orange, CA 92866
For more information, visit their website: www.havengastropub.com